Ok so Morocco is not really off all maps..it was just off our foldup map that we had been relying on for the previous several months..so in a sense we were now flying blind..it felt good.
After arriving in Tangier from Spain via the "2hr" ferry which actually took close to 4 hrs we immediately hopped the overnight train to Marrakesh, capital of the south. Feeling the need to up our standards as those around us fell we splurged 70euro on some first class couchettes..sleeper cars. First class my ass..these things were filthy and dank; the bunks were these old 1" thick mattresses on top of plywood with a few stained sheets littered with an assortment of strange hairs..before the train took off I asked the conductor in my really bad french "c'est premiere class?", "Oui" he replied..but as he did I could hear all the other travellers in the other couchettes scoffing...I could tell they were thinking the same thing..70euro..so not worth it..
We ended up sharing our cabin with a local lady who was carrying a very sick infant with her and after pleading for an hour into a cell phone at the beginning of the trip ended up crying herself to sleep..that was our first night..sticky hot, then freezing cold as the air conditioning apparently went into overdrive..trying to sleep on nasty bunks while the sounds of muffled sobs and a gurgling cough from the kid mixed with the steady chug of the train. And thus began our Moroccan adventure.
We arrived in Marrakesh early the next morning found a place to stay in the heart of the Medina and spent the next several days exploring the Souks and Djemma El Fna square.
Zonkers. That's what we have say about Marrakesh ..it's a complete frikin gong show here..you name it..it has has it. Snake Charmers, Boiled snails, Sheep head soup, fine Berber Carpet, imitation Prada, monkeys in cages, piles upon piles of saffron, teeth for sale, and men and women dressed like Jedi nights everywhere. Morocco comes in just about every color, smell and sound...its a complete assault on the senses. Walking through the souks you are confronted with smells of saffron, then of urine, then of frying fish then Jasmin, sewage and exhaust, then back to roasting lamb. Shoulder to shoulder people, donkey carts and motor bikes scurry about these crowded streets going about their days. There's lots of commotion and shouting and several times a day the many mosques that dot the Medina erupt into the call to prayers across their loud speakers. Despite the otherwise dirty public areas Marrakesh can also be very beautiful in spots. The main mosque in the area had beautiful rose gardens, some of the restaurants and souk shops we incredibly ornate and the Riads were always a welcome sanctuary.
After we picked up Kelly from the airport we ended up staying in a 'Riad' called Riad Catalina that was very nice..an oasis of calm in the midst of the Medina. The Riads are these old buildings built when women we not meant to be seen..so they are quite large structures completely devoid of any windows to the outside..instead they are turned outside-in with their centers opening up into massive courtyards in the middle usually crowded with palm trees, streams, pools, fountains, beautiful fabris and tiles framing eating and lounging areas etc..very soothing havens after a hectic day in the Medina. The food was also good and safe for the most part, although we did get sick of eating tagines and kabobs every day.
Instead of trying to describe the sights and sounds in any more detail I instead offer a brief photo tour of the area...bear in mind as you look at these photos that as we are walking in the souks we are being constantly harangued to come look and buy and that half of these photos we taken in super stealth mode while the other half cost me 1 or 2 dirham (30 cents) to get (Moroccans have zero qualms about charging tourists for any and everything...taking pictures, asking directions or standing in a crowd watching a street show will illicit touts demanding money..after several days it was kind of a pain in the ass actually)..
anyway..on to the pics. enjoy.
After arriving in Tangier from Spain via the "2hr" ferry which actually took close to 4 hrs we immediately hopped the overnight train to Marrakesh, capital of the south. Feeling the need to up our standards as those around us fell we splurged 70euro on some first class couchettes..sleeper cars. First class my ass..these things were filthy and dank; the bunks were these old 1" thick mattresses on top of plywood with a few stained sheets littered with an assortment of strange hairs..before the train took off I asked the conductor in my really bad french "c'est premiere class?", "Oui" he replied..but as he did I could hear all the other travellers in the other couchettes scoffing...I could tell they were thinking the same thing..70euro..so not worth it..
We ended up sharing our cabin with a local lady who was carrying a very sick infant with her and after pleading for an hour into a cell phone at the beginning of the trip ended up crying herself to sleep..that was our first night..sticky hot, then freezing cold as the air conditioning apparently went into overdrive..trying to sleep on nasty bunks while the sounds of muffled sobs and a gurgling cough from the kid mixed with the steady chug of the train. And thus began our Moroccan adventure.
We arrived in Marrakesh early the next morning found a place to stay in the heart of the Medina and spent the next several days exploring the Souks and Djemma El Fna square.
Zonkers. That's what we have say about Marrakesh ..it's a complete frikin gong show here..you name it..it has has it. Snake Charmers, Boiled snails, Sheep head soup, fine Berber Carpet, imitation Prada, monkeys in cages, piles upon piles of saffron, teeth for sale, and men and women dressed like Jedi nights everywhere. Morocco comes in just about every color, smell and sound...its a complete assault on the senses. Walking through the souks you are confronted with smells of saffron, then of urine, then of frying fish then Jasmin, sewage and exhaust, then back to roasting lamb. Shoulder to shoulder people, donkey carts and motor bikes scurry about these crowded streets going about their days. There's lots of commotion and shouting and several times a day the many mosques that dot the Medina erupt into the call to prayers across their loud speakers. Despite the otherwise dirty public areas Marrakesh can also be very beautiful in spots. The main mosque in the area had beautiful rose gardens, some of the restaurants and souk shops we incredibly ornate and the Riads were always a welcome sanctuary.
After we picked up Kelly from the airport we ended up staying in a 'Riad' called Riad Catalina that was very nice..an oasis of calm in the midst of the Medina. The Riads are these old buildings built when women we not meant to be seen..so they are quite large structures completely devoid of any windows to the outside..instead they are turned outside-in with their centers opening up into massive courtyards in the middle usually crowded with palm trees, streams, pools, fountains, beautiful fabris and tiles framing eating and lounging areas etc..very soothing havens after a hectic day in the Medina. The food was also good and safe for the most part, although we did get sick of eating tagines and kabobs every day.
Instead of trying to describe the sights and sounds in any more detail I instead offer a brief photo tour of the area...bear in mind as you look at these photos that as we are walking in the souks we are being constantly harangued to come look and buy and that half of these photos we taken in super stealth mode while the other half cost me 1 or 2 dirham (30 cents) to get (Moroccans have zero qualms about charging tourists for any and everything...taking pictures, asking directions or standing in a crowd watching a street show will illicit touts demanding money..after several days it was kind of a pain in the ass actually)..
anyway..on to the pics. enjoy.
inside one of the Palais
tile detail
riad catalina
a moroccan pigeon
a mosque entrance
art display in the art and gastronomy souk
our first riad..
kotubia mosque
standard streeet vendor fare
bab something of other..a gate into the walled city
date, apricots, figs et al for sale
sheep or cow heads
dinner in the square
spices
card game in souks
monkey cages
snake charmers
a souk
in the souks
the square
2 comments:
This looks like the coolest place so far! Looks like Kelly got to meet you in the bestest place ever!
Hey guys.
Very nice blog.
Thanks for posting so many wonderful pictures. I like them.
Morocco is a really fascinating country full of mystique cultures and traditions. I have never been there, bit it is my dream one day to visit it.
Post a Comment